In February of 1996 I was invited to participate in the first ever International James Beard Dinners in Mexico City. The other chefs included Thomas Keller, Susur Lee, Jean-Louis Palladin, Charlie Trotter, Rick Bayless and Todd English. Like I say, ‘the first‘ of these. We were all excited for the opportunity to both represent the James Beard Foundation as well as to cook with each other. The chef who created the most awe in all of us was the French born Jean-Louis Palladin. The man was awarded not one, but two Michelin stars in France at a time when everyone was convinced they were the highest honor one could win in our field. He came to America and took up residence at The Watergate Hotel in D.C. and his reputation on these shore soared!
We arrived from our respective cities to Mexico City and were escorted to the Presidente Inter-Continental Hotel in a very elegant part of the city. We were treated like dignitaries in every way. Champagne was poured. Tequila was offered. (and taken!) Photographers clicked away. the GM of the hotel made a speech and we were soon off to dinner held in our honor. It was sitting around the large dining table that I got the first inkling of what a completely over the top personality Jean-Louis Palladin was!
Over the course of the next three nights we cooked in three different restaurants in the ‘Presidente’ Inter-Continental Hotel. During the mornings we also toured the city. One early afternoon Jean-Louis burst into the prep area of the kitchen the rest of us were working in. He took the perpetual cigarette out of his mouth to exclaim, “Look at these f’ing beautiful cheeses! My God!! They are as fine as any back in France!!”. We rushed over to dig in.
For the dinners it meant at least seven courses. That would have implied for each chef to keep their course on the small side to allow for the enjoyment of all. But JLP didn’t get the ‘memo’… I remember Thomas’s dish was stacked on a temple of china with a fine 2 ounce portion atop. When it came time for Jean-Louis he hit each plate with what must have been 1/2 pound of roasted foie gras served in an intense sauce made with local fruits, chicken stock and a splash of vinegar. He roared with laughter as the rest of us were bugged eye’d at the portion. But you could not be pissed at the Frenchman. He was all heart and we miss him.
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Note: The caption for the newspaper misnames JLP. It goes left to right as me, JLP, Michael Ginor and Rick Bayless. But it is a good photo!