Zachary Fagenson, Miami New Times journalist.
Three. Culinary icon Norman Van Aken cooks his signature Florida-fusion cuisine in a sleek and tropical space. The staff is disciplined and the food is topnotch. It’s the sort of fine dining that fans of this Mango Gang legend expect. Three is the first-large scale project from Van Aken and any Mango Gang member since he parted with downtown Miami’s Tuyo. Downstairs, the menu changes as frequently as once a week and lists no prices. Diners are encouraged to choose three courses, one from each section, for a total of $65. Or they can leave it up to Van Aken and his kitchen for a $90 five-course tasting menu that could include a Thai garden salad, creamy cracked conch chowder, or a bay scallop aguachile. With all of the big names constantly looking to open in Miami, it’s a treat and a relief to see one of the city’s original culinary dons back in the mix. 50 NW 24th St., Miami; 305-748-4540; threewynwood.com.